94 S10 Blazer Exhaust 2 1/2 inch high flow cat with Flowmaster muffler
My 94 S10 Blazer it is a 94 with a built 4.3 Vortec, 2.5 inch exhaust high flow cat and Flowmater muffler. Shackle lifted rear with torsion bars cranked up in the front. I have added aluminum brush guards front to rear. Lost the push button 4 wheel drive went with a manual shift transer case, 3.73 gears with a posi rear. Also have a built 700r4 not the factor 4L60E. As soon as I get done working on my house it is getting 3 inch body lift and 32 inch BF's and 4 more lights across the roof. I need to take updated pictures too have changed a few things and added some too.
The Yadkinville GNCC ATV Race Report
Yadkinville, North Carolina, September 26, 2009
William Yokley finished 30th Overall and 15th in the XC1 Pro Class today. There were 140 total entries with 17 XC1 Pro Riders. Team Rider Mark Notman finished 21st Overall and 8th in the 22 rider XC2 Pro Am Class.
Summary
Yadkinville is a really nice area to visit and a hotbed for ATV enthusiasts. The race is usually run earlier in the year and is typically hot, dry and dusty. This year was much cooler and some rain moved into the area to take care of the dust. The conditions were pretty good but the rain made the red clay soil very slick, but I’ll take that over dust anytime.
I got a good start entering the woods in the top six, and I had a good pace going. The bike was working great about half way through lap 1. Then, the clutch would not disengage and I had no feel in the lever. The clutch was not slipping, but I could not get through the tight stuff very well at all, and I stalled the engine many times. With the clutch not working right, I knew this was going to be a tough day. Each time I stalled out, it took awhile to find neutral and get it fired back up; meanwhile, several guys would pass me. The clay buildup on my bike got so bad that it broke both fenders off, and when I finished, sit looked like something out of the Mad Max Road Warrior movies. I completed the 4 laps in 15th place in the XC1 Pro Class, and was pretty bummed out.
Mark Notman had a better day and worked his way up to 8th place in the XC2 Pro Am Class. He got something jammed in his chain early on, and had to stop to get it out, and passed riders all 4 laps. Good job Mark!
We have a very short turn around with our next race in St. Clairsville Ohio this coming Saturday October 3rd. That gives us just a few days to get the 450 prepared as well as the Polaris RZR UTV, which I race as well. I think it may take a whole day to get all the red clay mud off of the bike and the hauler! We have two race weekends left for the season. See you there!
Many Thanks to all our Sponsors!
Yokley Racing Team Sponsors are The Army National Guard, Polaris Industries, Kenda Tires, Elka Suspension, Roll Design, HMF Exhaust Systems, IMS/Roll, PURE Polaris Lubricants & Fuels, Intense Fabrication & Design, Douglas Wheel Technology, Moto Pro Training, Tire Balls, Andrews Cycle, Tsubaki Chains, IMS, Four Apparel, ASV Levers, CV4 Hoses, Hygh Octane Design, PIER Graphics, Universal Handlebars, Scott Goggles, ATVRiders.com, Hetrick Motorsports, Powermadd, Recluse Clutches, and Monavie Energy Drinks.
This is a very simple upgrade, slightly expensive, but a very important modification for any Fuel Injection quad. When you start making changes like adding an exhaust, modifying the air box for a new filter, and especially changing up the motor you have to change the air/fuel ratio. I am running the DynoJet PCV Powercommander. They also have a PC3, but the 3 has a lot less adjusment available for it. If you want to make sure that you are running the optimum ratio, or you like to play around with your fuel injection to change how it runs, get the PCV. Most of the major exhaust companies will have a map for their specific exhaust that you can download to your programmer.
Dynojet also has a set of maps that you will get on a CD with your programmer, and can also download more from their website. I am currently running a custom map for my modifications. When tuned just right I was able to get 3-4 more HP from my quad. But dont trust just anyone to do this for you. Many people can tune your quad for you to get max HP, but you could be putting your motor in serious danger. I could get more power from my programming, but Im running a safe fuel to air ratio.
You can see I have a bag over the programmer. You DO NOT EVER want to get water in it. Water can ruin your programmer pretty easily. Always cover it somewhow when washing your quad, and if you ride XC races, leave it covered permanetly. Mine stays covered in the bag, and it also gets foam packed around in so it doesnt move around, and the foam soaks up water..
This is a very simple upgrade, slightly expensive, but a very important modification for any Fuel Injection quad. When you start making changes like adding an exhaust, modifying the air box for a new filter, and especially changing up the motor you have to change the air/fuel ratio. I am running the DynoJet PCV Powercommander. They also have a PC3, but the 3 has a lot less adjusment available for it. If you want to make sure that you are running the optimum ratio, or you like to play around with your fuel injection to change how it runs, get the PCV. Most of the major exhaust companies will have a map for their specific exhaust that you can download to your programmer.
Dynojet also has a set of maps that you will get on a CD with your programmer, and can also download more from their website. I am currently running a custom map for my modifications. When tuned just right I was able to get 3-4 more HP from my quad. But dont trust just anyone to do this for you. Many people can tune your quad for you to get max HP, but you could be putting your motor in serious danger. I could get more power from my programming, but Im running a safe fuel to air ratio.
You can see I have a bag over the programmer. You DO NOT EVER want to get water in it. Water can ruin your programmer pretty easily. Always cover it somewhow when washing your quad, and if you ride XC races, leave it covered permanetly. Mine stays covered in the bag, and it also gets foam packed around in so it doesnt move around, and the foam soaks up water..
Its not even the weekend yet and Ive already spotted a lot of big names in the off-road industry, and even one not in the industry.
This weekend is the SCORE race in Primm. On Thursday afternoon as I was on my way to the infamous Glen Helen for some pre-WORCS training I spotted just about every major Trophy Truck and Class 1 buggy headed the opposite way to get their pit setup. As I was on my way back from Cali today I spotted a few more teams out doing some last minute testing. Couldn't really tell who they were while they were doing 80+ down trails next to the higway. One in Barstow... which was kind of far away so I think they might not be racing, but a few just a little ways towards Vegas away from Primm.
I missed most of the really important people that were at Glen Helen. Kory Ellis was there eariler that day, along with Karey Hart. Just before I got there KHart was out testing some of his short-course trucks. And I bet you wouldn't ever guess who was with him. Pink... yes, the singer. Came out in her Escalade to hang with Hart. JCR (Johnny Campbell Racing) was leaving right when I got there, and a few KTM box vans were present. No quads while I was there, but a few WORCS Bike pros getting ready for their race also.
Today at Racetown 395 there was a few more WORCS bike Pros out riding, but also a WORCS ATV pro( other than myself) but on a bike. Dustin Nelson was doing some testing for Yamaha on the 2010 YZ450F. Yes, the new bike with 4 valves, exhaust straight out the back of the head and all that. And he looked fast on it!
Hopefully I will have something else to write about after tomorrow. I was ready to pit for a class 10 car at the SCORE race tomorrow, but I guess they did a little too much pre-race testing.... Blew up their motor day before the race.
SUBJECT: GOOD OLD KAWASAKI KDX200
Hello,
I currently own a 2001 KDX 200. I've kept the bike bone stock over the years and always wanted more power, but I was young and financialy unable to throw money at the cause. Now that I can afford to do so. What would you suggest to squeeze some hidden power out of an already awesome bike? (other than installing the FMF"Gnarly",which I intend to do, soon!)
Ed Gardner
Clarksburg, WV
This is one of the finest all-around bikes ever built. By all means, go for an FMF pipe and a set of Boyesen reeds. Then go for two teeth more on the countershaft sprocket. Don't worry, the bike will easily pull the gearing. At this point, the bike will be a joy to ride.
Here’s a photo of the KDX200 I personally owned for over a decade.
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Check out full column of this months reader's questions and Rick's answers.
Rick Sieman's monthly "Don't Ask" column doesn't go live on the Off-Road.com editorial site until next week. But I've decided to reward all our loyal Community members, and you get it here first! Here's just a taste, you can read the whole thing over there next Wednesday. Brace yourself!
SUBJECT: YAMAHA ENDURO CLUTCH PROBLEMS
Mr. Siemen,
First, let me tell you that after nearly 25 years of reading your stuff throughout my formative years, I finally have cause to write you. I will, no doubt, sound like so many other sniveling brats that have plague you with questions about their bikes, but I do so at my own risk.
I recently purchased a 1976 IT400C with 768 original miles on it. It has sat for four years with minimal use, and quite obviously, saw little use before that as evidenced by the actual mileage. The bike starts first or second kick, idles beautifully, and cycles through the gears with no problem. I do, however, have one issue.
When the bike is not running, and in gear, I pull the clutch in and attempt to roll the bike and the tranny catches. The clutch will not disengage. My first attempt to remedy the problem was to adjust the freeplay out of the cable at the perch. This helped, but did not cure it.
I took the case cover off and removed the clutch/friction plates after draining the oil, which it had plenty of. They look fine, but they do stick together in a mass when I squeeze the clutch, of course there is no centrifugal force to spin them apart because the motor is off. When I pulled them off the basket they separated with little effort.
The bike will start in first gear with the clutch lever pulled in. Do you think this is something as simple as the cable? Could it just be that I need to run her a bit with some light oil and get the clutch moving again? Finally, could the fiber have swelled and now be out of tolerance?
I appreciate your time and expertise.
Yours,
Matthew Buzzell
Beverly, NJ
The cork swelled up from all those years sitting in oil. You probably need new clutch plates, but before you buy them, try this. Take the cork plates out and clean them thoroughly with contact cleaner. Then, put a sheet of 200 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a small sheet of glass. A piece of glass from a picture frame works fine. Next, rub the plates on the sandpaper a bit (both sides) and after this, hit it with the sandpaper again. Let the plates dry a full day, then re-install. The plates will either work, or the cork will disintegrate. It's worth a try.
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SUBJECT: MAKING A 2002 CR250 SHORTER
Im writing this with reservation that my spelling/grammar may not be up to par. However, I do have a question regarding motorcycles, and as you may have figured short people. Im 5'7 , 23, and recently bought a 02 CR250, my first bike. Ive been riding for just under a year now and I really enjoy my bike, Ive been riding the Oregon dunes along with doing some minor trail riding. Obviously I need it to be lower; as you said anyone under 5'10; will experience problems, Im no exception. Ive read your article regarding shaving your seat foam down, and thats one option that I will take.
I was curious; are there any other avenues that I could explore regarding the issue? Some more experience riders have told me that you can soften up the front and rear suspension to effectively give you a shorter bike, but, warn it can severely change your ride. How much can I change my suspension without it changing my ride drastically?
On a final note, Im the third owner of this bike; is there a simple way to tell if your bike has been bored out? I wonder because the bike has a myriad of bolt on goodies including V-force reeds, FMF exhaust, etc. Finally, what should I take with me for parts, and do you have any insider knowledge- I should know- regarding the late model two strokes?
Thank you!
Short Guy
Tacoma, WA
Cutting the saddle will make a huge difference. Then you can raise the forks up in the triple clamps a bit (13 mms or so). Combine that with backing off the pre-load on the shock to 110 mms or so, should let the bike settle down a bunch. If you were going to race the bike, this would affect the turning of the bike, but for play/trail riding, it should be no problem. To tell what size piston you have in the bike would require that you take the top end apart.
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SUBJECT: NO SPARK IN A YAMAHA TTR225
We bought a Yamaha TTR225 that has no spark. Everything checked good by the shop manual specs except the stator checked no good. We installed a new stator but still no spark. Previous owner replaced the coil but the old one checks good. Do the stators sometimes take out ignition modules when they fail?
Thanks.
Kirby
Lafayette, TN
Chances are quite high that you have the wiring hooked up incorrectly. Check out all (and I mean all ) of your wiring for a dead short or a faulty connector. No, stators do not "take out" ignition modules when they fail, as a rule.
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SUBJECT: WHAT’S AN OLD YAMAHA IT465 WORTH?
looking to get back to enduro, friend has IT 465 ,not running for 6 months says minor issues what is a fair price to offer??? thanks
Mike
Gettysburg, PA
That's a tough question. In good shape, in average condition, a Yamaha IT465 would go for$700 to $1000, depending on details. The "minor issues" could be electrical in nature, which means big bucks. Or the bike could use a top end job, which should cost under $100. Find out what these issues are and deduct what it would cost to fix them from the price I gave you.
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SUBJECT: HAH! YET ANOTHER WEIRD BIKE
I just bought a Baja Motorsports dirt runner 50cc 4 stroke 3.8hp 2005 dirt bike off a free listings website when i went to see the bike it looked good. It started right up this is when i figured out this guy was putting mix oil in the 4 stroke bike. it went pretty good didn't even smoke that much. it has very weak low end power you have to find the sweet spot to get it to start revving up then it goes to about 5500rpm it starts bogging and you have to pulse the throttle to get it to rev to its max 7500rpm. if you don't give it the right throttle it just holds a bog and eventually dies i bought it for 150$ when i got it i drained the gas and put 94 in it opened up the carb and cleaned it good with throttle body cleaner and brake cleaner. the flout looked good and the high flow jet is clear i sprayed some throttle body cleaner right in the engine thew the intake cranked it let it sit then poured gas right in and cranked it then it would rev up a bit pretty cool with no carb. after all that it runs a farly bit better but still has no low end and bogs a lot the bog is usually consistent to cetain rpm i don't really know what to do next please help thx
Super Devon
Oakville, CANADA
Hmm, this email was far above the norm in degree of difficulty, so we enlisted the Divine Intervention of Father Matt Cuddy. After all, he's an expert in weird bikes and your bike qualifies. So here are his thoughts:
I thought Super Devon was glue, and it came in a tube … whatever.
Devon, here's my unsolicited thoughts on your Baja Motorsports "bike":
Since it is only fifty cee cees, and has less horsepower than most lawnmowers, you have to "go big" with a hop up kit to get the displacement to at least 600cc. You can do this by getting an electric drill and a hole saw, and attacking that puny cylinder with gusto. Just remember, when the fins fall off the barrel, you've gone too far. If you've managed to "bore" the cylinder out to a respectable 700 cee cees or so, you now have to find a piston and set of rings to fit. Might I suggest a piston from a 1923 Hispano Suiza? They work great, and the high silicone content in the cast iron piston insures long life between re-bores and ring jobs. The lord gives us these trials to overcome, and become a better person, or in this case a better Baja 50cc (ahem) "motorcycle".
Now about cleaning the carb with brake cleaner, that's a no-no. You should have used oven cleaner, and a nice big sponge. NEVER EVER use brake cleaner on a carburetor; that would be like using aquarium cleaner on a car bumper, or chrome cleaner on a poodle. Get the right tool for the right job Devon, er, Super Devon?
Maybe you can just get rid of the carburetor all together and run the gas line directly into the intake manifold, It ran OK when you did it last time, right? Maybe you've invented some kind of new fuel-infesting system, that needs no moving parts, or has been untouched by human hands. Amazing stuff there, Super Devon.
Now about the "BOG" you're experiencing, it might be that the motor's clogged up with cranberries. Get it? Bog? Cranberries? And if, in fact, it is cranberries causing the "bog", you can get one of those super juice machines from the Juice Man and squeeze up some Cranberry Juice that's good for the urinary tract. See, when life gives you bogs, make juice! Ha! That's a good one...
So Devon, er, Super Devon, I give you these thoughts so you can achieve greatness with your little Baja Bike, that I'm sure will one day be as fast as a top fuel dragster, and have all the torque of a Massey Ferguson tractor.
Send me five holy cards and say 15 Hail Marys.
Yours Truly
Fr. Matthew Cuddy
St. Finbar
Burbank
81 chevy currently with a mildly built 350 including hooker comp headers, duel 2 1/2 inch flowmaster exhaust, edelbrock performer intake, 750 quadrajet that was tuned and built by sean murphy induction. 10.1 compression on forged pistons, hd valve springs. Monster motorsports built 700r4 with 2000 stall. rebuilt np208. rearend has 12 bolt with new 4.56 gears and eaton hipo limited slip. front has 4.56 and limited slip in garage waiting to be installed.
It is currently in san diego getting mounts installed for deaver long travel front springs they are 4" longer than stock and an engine cage and shock hoop. I have a ls2 in the machine shop it has ross forged pistons ls6 heads that are in the process of getting stainless steel valves and ported. If I can find it cheap enough I will add fuel injection. The body was completely repainted in 2007 chevy tahoe blue and I had all the rust cut out new hood and windshield installed. All new seals installed on cab and windows, the bed was taken off when it was painted and I shaved the antenna hole drip rails all emblems and both gas doors the molding behind the rear window, tailgate. Also a steel roll pan installed. I also removed the ugly wind wing and had a steel plated welded in instead and chevy tahoe stlyle mirrors installed. I didnt shave the door handles or door lock. It currently sits on 35 bfg muds and pro comp rims I have a sir michels hidden hitch, license plate flip up kit and light, and tailgate handle to finish it off and install. The interior is mostly stock with some added dynamat new black carpet and a custom made beard bench seat. Like all projects its not finished I am debating on what to do with the stock 10 bolt. My friend can gusset it and I was considering addding the warn forged axles for it and better hubs and u-joints, If I upgrade to a 1 ton front axle I have to swap out my brand new rims and tires and my rear axle all of which I dumped a lot of money into. Any suggestions?
KTM North American sent out this press release regarding Protect Your Right to Ride. If you are concerned with off-road land use in any form, read below:
Murrieta, CA – KTM North America, and FMF Racing have partnered together along with support from the AMA, Blue Ribbon Coalition (BRC), NOHVCC and ORBA to declare the month of May as Protect Your Right to Ride month.
“In these tough economic times, we feel it is essential to take time to inform motorcycle enthusiasts on how they can become involved in the motorcycle organizations that are protecting their right to ride,” commented KTM President Jon-Erik Burleson. “The last thing we can afford to lose is our riding areas.”
There is power in numbers, and now is the time for motorcyclists to join forces to ensure that everyone has a place to enjoy the sport of motorcycling. There are many open riding areas across the country that are facing land use and noise emission regulations, which could threaten or potentially close the area from motorcycle related recreation activities.
During the month of May, visit a KTM dealer to find out information about what you can do to protect your right to ride. Each KTM dealer will supply materials provided by the motorcyclist activist clubs and organizations that have been fighting for your rights all along. When you visit your KTM dealer and show your AMA, BRC and/or ORBA membership card or choose to sign up for a membership at the dealership you will receive an entry toward a chance to win a brand new KTM 250 XC-FW with an FMF Q4 Titanium exhaust system. Participants will receive one entry for each of the organizations to which they belong.
For more information visit www.soundoffmc.com, a new website designed to provide the latest information about protecting motorized off-road recreation.